|
1.
Congratulations for having purchased our fine Big Blow Valves. We are sure
you will have many years of trouble-free service from our product. Here
are some bits of information that may be helpful: 2.
There is an identification number stamped on the one rail. This number
allows Stainless Valve Co. to verify which product you have received.
Please always refer to that number if you have any question about our
product. We also have attached a label with SVC and our telephone number,
so that you can reach us if you have any questions about this product or
any other application. 3.
When you install the valve it does not matter at all, in which position
you place the valve. It will work fine in any position. It also does not
have any preference concerning flow direction. 4.
Slide the valve in between the two pipe flanges and insert the gaskets
between the valve and the flanges. You can support the valve at the
cylinder and/or at the valve body. It is advisable to put the valve in the
position with the blade retracted inside the valve body on the far end to
protect the blade from damage. It is the blade in the position, in which
the valve was shipped to you. 5.
The pipe flanges are either bolted against the side plate of the valve or
against a flange. 6.
In case of the bolting against the side plate screw in studs into the
threaded holes in the boltholes. The length of the studs should be: "Side
plate thickness plus flange thickness plus gasket thickness plus spring
washer thickness plus nut thickness". If
you received a product with a flange on one or both sides, use on the
flanged side double the length of the calculation above. Tighten
the studs into the valve side plate, do not force, hand-tighten should be
sufficient; then tighten the nuts. The
following are suggested torque for tightening the nuts: Nut
size
torque [ft lb.] 5/8
- 11
93 3/4
- 10
124 7/8
- 9
193 1
- 8
259 1
1/8 -
7
390 1
1/4 -
7
480 1
½ -
6
703 7.
In case of valves with one or no flanges, there are four holes on the bolt
hole circle going through the rails that do not have threads. Insert studs
of the following length: "Thickness
of the valve body plus twice the flange thickness plus twice the gasket
thickness plus twice the spring washer thickness plus twice the nut
thickness". Tighten the nuts; torque see above 8.
Connect the cylinder inlets to the control-valve unless the control-valve
was supplied by Stainless Valve Co. Use at least a 3/8" pipe. Use a
control-valve that controls the outlet flow of air to control the opening
and/or closing speed. Stainless-Valve-supplied control valves operate on
115 V. 9.
If limit switches are used, connect the normally open contact to the
control circuit. 10.
AWG 14 wires are sufficient for all purposes. 11.
A minimum of 80 psi air supply should be available for cylinder actuation.
The air should be dried and oiled. 12.
All Big Blow Valves are actuated and tested at 2 times the nominal
pressure at the SVC plant. Drip tight shut off is assured. Leak-free
packing-glands are checked. If after several months of operating the
valves a dripping should occur, please re-tighten the lock-nuts on the
pushers, making sure that the nuts are tightened an equal amount,
preventing cocking of the pusher. It is advisable to check that there is a
minimum of .010" gap between pusher and blade to prevent scratching
of the blade. 13.
No other maintenance is necessary on the Big Blow Valves. 14.
Depending on the application, pressures, temperatures, frequency of
actuation, medium, etc., there may be a need for some spare parts. Please
ask for the repair manual and the spare parts list if that should become
necessary.
Dr.
Dirk A. Lindenbeck, President
6/26/01 INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPAIR ON BIG BLOWŌ VALVESThe necessary spare parts consists of: Chevron set consisting of 2 sets of 3 different chevron parts
(ch) 4 pieces of PTFE rope. (ro) 2 gaskets for Big Blow. (ga) Extra rope, if needed, can be purchased. (ro) Four pieces Viton strip for Big Blow, for older valves round,
for newer valves square. (vs) Seat ring screws for Big Blow. (sc) Two Seats for Big Blow. (se) Bottom for Big Blow for older valves without step in the
glands. (bo) It is suggested to purchase chevrons, rope and gaskets for
normal re-packing, i.e. for repairs where re-packing of the valve is
required. The viton strip, seats and seat ring screws, are required in
addition, when the whole valve body is to be taken apart and seats are
replaced. Before re-packing the valve, inspect the blade in the open
and closed position of the valve in order to determine if any damage has
been done to the blade surface. Deep
scratches or washout of the blade surface by steam will prevent the valve
from sealing properly and tear up new packing.
In those cases, please return the valve to Stainless Valve Co. for
complete rework. Always check
the straightness of the body side plates and rails. Machining of valve parts, re-welding and adjustments may be
necessary to make the repair successful.
When in doubt about the extent of the repair necessary, return the
valve to Stainless Valve Co. We
guarantee the quickest turnaround time - two weeks if no major parts are
required to be made. 1. Re-pack Ends - This repair is only suggested if the valve blade does
not show any wear marks and also is only suggested when leaking cannot be
stopped anymore be re-tightening the nuts on the pusher. 1.1. Take the
pin out of the clevis, which connects the air cylinder with the blade.
Attention: When the
clevis is rotated on the cylinder rod thread, the position of the bore in
the blade would change in relation to the bore in the side plate when
re-assembled. Remove the
bolts, which hold the cylinder on the tie bars.
Take the cylinder off. The cylinder can be re-packed using an air cylinder repair
kit. When repaired at
Stainless Valve Co., the cylinders are checked at 130 psi.
No repair is done, unless leakage appears or is required by the
customer. 1.2. Remove the
nuts on the studs, which tighten the pusher and take the pushers off. 1.3. Remove the
socket head cap screws, which are holding the packing glands on the valves
body respectively rails. The
packing glands can then be taken off the valve body. 1.4. Push the
old chevron and packing material out from the packing glands by hand. 1.5. Scrape the
remainders of the old gasket from the packing gland respectively valve
body. 1.6. Clean all
parts thoroughly. 1.7. Place new
gaskets on the valve body and mount the packing glands on the valve body.
On older valves, which do not have the step in the packing gland,
the bottom has to be placed with an additional gasket between the packing
gland and the valve body. Packing
gland and bottom have to be centered on the valve body between the side
plates respectively the rails. The
blade may have to be supported in order to center the blade in the body.
Before tightening the screws for the packing gland, it is necessary
to make sure that the distances between the packing gland and the blade is
uniformly .5” on a new valve, or up to .6” for a valve which has a
re-machined blade. For the
width of the blade, the distance remains .5”.
Attach the packing glands with socket head cap screws. 1.8. Introduce
the first part of the chevron as per the drawing.
The chevron slides over the blade up to the packing gland.
Use a soft material like a plastic bar to tap the chevron into its
position, going around the blade several times.
In this process, some material may be shaven off the chevron. If
you experience problems introducing the chevrons, it is acceptable to
chamfer the chevrons slightly to make it enter into the size for size gap. 1.9. After the
first chevron has been introduced, introduce the second part and treat it
the same way. 1.10. Cut the
rope ends at an angle in to order to overlap the appropriate length to fit
around the blade. 1.11. Place the
rope around the blade and push it into the cavity between the blade and
the packing gland by means of, for example, a bar of about 1/2” square
cross section. 1.12. Now introduce the third chevron part as per the
drawing. 1.13. Slide the
pusher over the blade and press it against the flat part of the chevron.
Only hand tighten the nuts which hold the pusher in place. 1.14. It is
extremely important to make sure the pusher is tightened uniformly in
order to make sure that the chevrons and ropes are sealing all around the
blade. It is advisable to use
a shim of approximately .020” thick.
Slide this shim all the way around the blade in order to make sure
the pusher does not touch the blade in any place. 1.15. Put the
cylinder back into place and cycle the valve while tightening the pushers
more. 1.16. After two
to six weeks of the valve being in operation, re-tighten the pushers.
If, at some later time, the valve starts to leak at the ends
re-tighten the pusher. This
is also very important on any newly packed valve. Note: if you know
that the Big Blow valve has a bottom or step in the gland, you do not have
to remove the actuator and the glands. Under item 1.2. use a packing
puller and screwdriver to remove the old packing and the chevrons. Then
proceed with item 1.8. 2. Exchange Seats - The seats have to be exchanged
when they show score marks or steam washout.
The seat ring usually does not get damaged. 2.1. Proceed as
under 1.1. to 1.6. 2.2. Open the
valve body by unscrewing the nuts from the studs, which hold the valve
body together. 2.3. Check
whether plates and rails are marked for mating re-assembly. 2.4. Remove the
top plate from the valve and the rails.
Clean all parts thoroughly and check for score marks on the side
plates. 2.5. Mark the
seat ring for position and unscrew the socket head cap screws of the seat
ring. 2.6. Remove the
seat ring and the old seat. Make
sure that there is no material in the bottom of the groove. Measure the blade thickness and the rail thickness, divide
the difference by 2 and add .006”.
This is the amount the seat has to stick out of the side plate. The
Seat has to be machined to the right height.
2.7. Assemble
the new seat with the seat ring, and insert it into the grooves in the
plates. Use new seat ring
screws. 2.8. Tighten and
re-peen the screws. It is
important to verify that the height of the seat ring is not above the side
plate. 2.9. Insert the
new viton strip in the rails, diameter .25 in older valves, .25 square in
newer valves. 2.10. Apply some
anti-seize material on the surface of the seat ring and re-assemble the
valve. 2.11. Proceed as
under 1.7. to 1.16.
Dr.
Dirk A. Lindenbeck, President
Owner's Manual Stargate-O-Port Valves
(One/Two
Cylinders)
1.
Congratulations for having purchased our fine Stargate-O-Port
Valves. We are sure you will have
many years, possibly decades of trouble-free service from our product.
Here are some bits of information, which may be helpful. 2.
There is an identification number stamped on the one rail. This number
allows Stainless Valve Co. to verify which product you have received.
Please always refer to that number if you have any question about our
product. We also have attached a label with SVC and our telephone number,
so that you can reach us if you have any questions about this product or
any other application. 3.
When you install the valve it does not matter at all, in which position
you place the valve. It will work fine in any position. It also does not
have any preference in respect to flow direction. 4.
Slide the valve in between the two pipe-flanges and insert the gaskets
between the valve and the flanges. You can support the valve at the
cylinder and/or at the valve body. It is advisable to have the valve in
the position with the blade retracted inside the valve body on the far end
in order to protect the blade from damage. It is the blade position, in
which the valve was shipped to you. 5.
On bigger tandem actuated valves you may have to remove one actuator, so
that you can slide the valve between the flanges. In this case it is
advisable to have the blade retracted on the cross bar side. In this way
the cylinder rods are retracted and the actuator can be removed when the
pins from the brackets and the clevis at the cross bar are removed.
6.
Screw in studs into the threaded holes in the boltholes. The length of the
studs should be: “Side
plate thickness plus flange thickness plus gasket thickness plus spring
washer thickness plus nut thickness”. If
you received a product with a flange on one or both sides use on the
flanged side double the length of the calculation above. Tighten
the studs into the valve side plate, do not force, hand-tighten should be
sufficient; then tighten the nuts. The
following is the suggested torque for tightening the nuts: Nut
size
torque [ft lb.] 5/8
- 11
93 3/4
- 10
124 7/8
- 9
193 1
- 8
259 1
1/8 -
7
390 1
1/4 -
7
480 1
½ -
6
703 7.
For valves with one or no flange there are four holes on the bolthole
circle going through the rails, which do not have threads. Insert studs of
the following length: “Thickness
of the valve body plus twice the flange thickness plus twice the gasket
thickness plus twice the spring washer thickness plus twice the nut
thickness”. Tighten
the nuts; torques see above. 8.
Connect the cylinder inlets to the control-valve unless the control-valve
was supplied by Stainless Valve Co. Use at least a 3/8" pipe. Use a
control-valve, which controls the outlet flow of air to control the
opening and/or closing speed. Stainless-Valve-supplied control valves
operate on 115 V as standard. 9.
If limit switches are used connect the normally open contact to the
control circuit. 10.
AWG 14 wires are sufficient for all purposes. 11.
A minimum of 80 psi air supply should be available for cylinder actuation.
The air should be dried and oiled. 12.
All Stargate-O-Port Valves are actuated and tested at twice the nominal
pressure at the SVC plant. Drip tight shut off is ensured. Leak-free
packing-glands are checked. If after several months of operating the
valves a dripping should occur (which is very rare) please re-tighten the
lock-nuts on the pushers, making sure that the nuts are tightened an equal
amount, preventing cocking of the pusher. It is advisable to check that
there is a minimum of .010" gap between pusher and blade in order to
prevent scratching of the blade. Actuate the blade occasionally while
tightening the pusher. 13.
No other maintenance is necessary on the Stargate-O-Port Valves.
14.
Depending on the application, pressures, temperatures, frequency of
actuation, medium etc. there may be a need for some spare parts. Please
ask for the repair manual and the spare parts list if that should become
necessary.
Dr.
Dirk A. Lindenbeck, President
Instructions for repair on Stargate-O-Port Valves (One/Two
Cylinders) The necessary spare parts consist
of for example a 24” valve:
It is suggested to purchase guides
and rope as one set for repairs where resealing of the valve body is
required. Viton strip, seats
and seat springs are also required when the whole valve body is to be
taken apart and seats and seat springs are replaced. Before re-packing the valve,
inspect the blade in the open and closed position of the valve in order to
determine if any damage has been done to the blade surface.
Deep scratches or washout of the blade surface by steam will
prevent the valve from sealing properly and tear up new packing.
In those cases, please return the valve to Stainless Valve Co. for
complete rework. Always check the straightness of the body side plates and
rails. Machining of valve
parts, re-welding and adjustments may be necessary to make the repair
successful. When in doubt
about the extent of the repair necessary, return the valve to Stainless
Valve Co. We guarantee the quickest turnaround time - two weeks if no
major parts are required to be made. 1. Seal Ends - This repair is only suggested if the
valve blade does not show any wear marks. Take the pin out of the clevis,
which connects the air cylinder with the blade/cross bar.
Attention: When the
clevis is rotated on the cylinder rod thread, the position of the bore in
the blade would change in relation to the bore in the side plate when
reassembled. Remove the
bolts, which hold the cylinder on the valve.
Take the cylinder/s off. The
cylinder can be re-packed using an air cylinder repair kit.
When repaired at Stainless Valve Co., the cylinders are checked at
130 psi. 1.2. Remove the nuts on the studs, which tighten the pusher and
take the pushers off. On older valves: 1.3. Remove the socket head cap
screws, which are holding the packing glands on the valves body
respectively rails. The
packing glands can then be taken off the valve body. 1.4. Push the old guides and rope out from the packing glands by
hand. 1.5. Scrape the remainders of the old gasket from the packing
gland respectively valve body. 1.6. Clean all parts thoroughly. 1.7. Place new gaskets on the valve body and mount the packing
glands on the valve body. Before
tightening the screws for the packing gland, it is necessary to make sure
that the distances between the packing gland inside and the body
respectively rails are uniform. The
blade has to be supported appropriately to get a uniform distance between
the blade and the packing gland inside of .5” on a new valve, or up to
.6” for a valve, which has a re-machined blade. For
small valves this distance is .375” respectively .475”.
For the width of the blade, the distance remains .5” respectively
.375”. On newer valves: Use packing puller to remove
packing and blade guides from the integrated glands. All valves: 1.8.
Introduce the first guide.
The guide slides over the blade up to the packing gland.
Use a soft material like a plastic bar to hammer the guide into its
position, going around the blade several times.
In this process, some material may be shaven off the guide. If you
experience problems introducing the guides, it is acceptable to chamfer
the guides slightly. 1.9. Cut the rope ends at an angle
in order to overlap the appropriate length to fit around the blade. Place
the first rope around the blade and push it into the cavity between the
blade and the packing gland by means of, for example, a bar of 1/2”
square cross section. Repeat
with the 2nd rope etc. 1.11. As the last piece the second
blade guide is introduced. 1.12. Slide the pusher over the blade and press it against the
guide. Only hand-tighten the
nuts, which hold the pusher in place.
1.13. It is extremely important to make sure the pusher is
tightened uniformly in order to make sure that the guide and ropes are
sealing all around the blade. It
is advisable to use a shim of approximately .020” thick.
Slide this shim all the way around the blade in order to make sure
the pusher does not touch the blade in any place. 1.14. Put the cylinder/s back into place and cycle the valve while
tightening the pushers more. 1.15. After two to six weeks of the valve being in operation
re-tighten the pushers. This
is also very important on a new valve! 2. Exchange Seats - The seats have to be
exchanged when they show score-marks or steam washout.
If so, viton strip, guides, rope, seat springs, and seats are
necessary. 2.1. Proceed as under 1.1. to 1.6. 2.2. Open the valve body by unscrewing the nuts from the studs,
which hold the valve body together. 2.3. Check whether plates and rails are marked for mating
re-assemble. 2.4. Remove the top plate from the valve and the rails.
Clean all parts thoroughly and check for score marks on the side
plates. 2.5. Remove the old seat and seat spring. Make sure that there is no material in the bottom of the
grooves. 2.6. Measure the blade thickness and the rail thickness.
Divide the difference by 2. This
value plus up to .004” is the amount, which the seat has to stick out of
the side plate without the spring underneath. 2.7. Insert the new seat spring into the grooves in the plates.
Insert the seat with some grease on the upper plate to prevent the
seat from fall out when turned over for assembly. 2.9. Insert the new rail strip in the rails. 2.10. Proceed as under 1.7. to 1.14.
Dr.
Dirk A. Lindenbeck, President
|
